Okay, there is no category for "travel", so I'm posting one here. Until "travel" gets it own home in its own forum, how about any posts relating to travel have the headliner "Travel:" and then the name of the destination in question or being suggested?
There are so many of us here who are enjoy traveling, and I figure if we posted ins and outs of various places, there may be things right in our own backyard that we didn't even know about.
Also - if anyone would like to go somewhere and wants to make a request on here, mention where you're at, where you're going, yada yada - and chances are, there's somebody here who's already been there and can give you some tips on some stuff you wouldn't necessarily see unless you went looking for it.
So to kick off the subject, I thought I'd start with Grand Canyon, seeing as how I've been there multiple times and hiked it.
This post will be broken down into sections:
When to go
Sticking to the rim
Hiking the canyon
Psyching up for the long hike out
GRAND CANYON: WHEN TO GO
Everything I talk about here is quite do-able by the average person. I'm serious about the warnings, but this is to be careful, not to scare people.
In short late fall, early spring & WINTER. Besides being cooler, there's a whole heck of a lot less people there. If you're there in the summer, make sure you hit the North Rim. There are far less people there.
No matter what time of year you go, it is well worth the visit. Make sure you bring your camera.
STICKING TO THE RIM:
The rim itself is fantastic viewing, easy access and minimal physical strain. However - don't kid yourself. PEOPLE DIE IN GRAND CANYON EVERY YEAR. Often, these are people who were along the nice, safe, rim, who fell into the canyon. It's usually a 200 to 500 foot drop right off the bat, so sadly, you usually die.
Enjoy the view, just remember - it's real easy to walk off of a roof, and it's real easy to walk over the edge of a canyon.
The altitude is a serious problem for both breathing and ultraviolet radiation. Sunglasses are highly recommended, and a hat, etc... You're at 8,000 feet on the south rim and 9,000 feet on the north rim.
HIKING:
You don't need a permit for day hikes; that is, if you are not spending the night in the canyon, you're free to do whatever you want down there - as long as you don't camp down there.
Count on a minimum of two hours' hike to get to the inner canyon, and four to six hours to get back out. To go to the river and back in a day trip is feasible, but not recommended - especially if you've never hiked the canyon before. In the words of the National Park Service:
"Some have tried, and made it. Others have tried, and died."
Remember the altitude will weaken you, and make it hard to breath, and don't forget to protect yourself from the radiation. It should be noted, I live at sea level, and have never had a problem with the altitude there, but it is high enough to bother most people, and I get to high altitudes and physical exertion fairly regularly.
Again, wintertime is by far the best time of year to hike in the canyon. Demand for back country permits pegs during Marchish through October, so unless you plan six months in advance, you're probably not going to get a permit.
When I've gone in February, I waltzed into the backcountry center - on a long weekend - and said "I'd like a campsite at Indian gardens" and he said "How many people?" Backcountry permits are not a problem during the winter months.
Now mind you, it does get cold down there. It was unusually cold the last time I went, there was snow on the ground beside me at Indian gardens, but I had a warm sleeping bag and i was fine.
During the summer, temperatures usually hit 110 in the shade. Besides being very dangerous and remote (so if you have a problem, there is a good chance you can die), you consume far more water - water you have to carry because water in the canyon can be sporadic during the summer. The heat also causes problems for many people in trying to sleep. While there are many places in the canyon you can sleep buck-naked, that usually doesn't help keep you cool.
During the winter, there's water *everywhere*. This is important, because while there is running water at Indian Gardens campground, and along the Bright Angel trail, this water system DOES break down, so may not have any water.
Both times I hiked was in February, and I usually didn't have to hike farther than a mile or two to find water. At 65 pounds per cubic foot, water is by far your heaviest item to carry, so if you can bring some compact & lightweight water filtration systems and just keep topping up every few miles, hiking is a lot more pleasant and a lot less strenuous. If you have to pack water, you want *at least* one gallon per person, per day - I'd recommend a gallon and a half.
During the summer, you want to be guzzling gatorade and stuff; eats lots of salt. This is not a maybe, this is a matter of life and death. One thing that makes a great snack is vienna sausages. No cooking required, small, lightweight aluminum can, lots of protein, and a brine broth to drink.
Also, no matter what time of year, you want to drink *lots* of fluids; keep your kidneys functioning. This was a tip from a doctor friend of mine: There's proteins running through your kidneys from the breakdown of muscles, and if you don't drink lots of fluids with all of the physical exertion, you'll clog your kidneys. This is BAD.
Another tip a friend showed me: Ground sheeting. Ditch your tent - it's extra weight (and every ounce counts). Bring a tarp that's a little longer than your sleeping bag, and a little more than twice as wide. Lay it down on the ground, put your mattress or cushion on it, against one edge, put your sleeping bag on that.
It so seldom rains or snows inside the canyon (usually the rain evaporates before it hits the canyon floor!) that you probably won't even need a tent. However, if it does rain, you flip the remaining tarp over top of you to keep the rain off of you.
There is one disadvantage though: Snakes, skunks, etc...
By the way - this is another reason for going in the winter: The snakes are gone.
I did get "attacked" by either a lizard or a mouse - I don't know which it was - that ran up my sleeping bag, made me jump and fling it up into the air - and it landed smack on my face. All of this in the dark of course.
Ya... I'm sure it was more scared than I was... but it took forever to get that stain out of my sleeping bag!
Places to see:
-Tonto or Plateau point - especially at sunrise.
-The Colorado river - it is indescribably beautiful down there, and so is the trail down to it!
-Hike anywhere along the plateau of the inner canyon; it's hard to go wrong!
-the inner gorge bridges
PSYCHING UP FOR THE LONG HIKE OUT
Don't kid yourself - it's brutal. Depending on where you're coming from, you've probably got a 3,000 foot ascent ahead of you. And depending on which trail it is, it can be very steep.
The secret is pacing yourself. If you walk fast (like I do) - you walk the same speed, but with much smaller steps than normal. There's nothing wrong with walking 50 feet, stopping and taking a break. You'll get out, just take your time.
The Bright Angel trail is the best trail out, as it usually has treated water along the trail, lots of shade, and a couple of rest stations.
If you're hiking through the inner canyon (i.e., you get right down to the Colorado river), it means a vertical ascent of as much as 5,000 feet. It's very do-able, but I'd recommend doing a multi-day hike just to the inner rim first before attempting that part. The switchbacks into the inner canyon are spectacular and intimidating! There's spots where you are literally standing on 500 foot ridges - make sure you get lots of pictures.
I've done the trip by myself, having company is nice. The first time, I took my time. I was overweight (I was both times) but in good hiking shape. My weight put me through more work of course, so it's good to train up before you make the hike. First time it took me about six hours to hike out from Indian gardens, just taking my time because I was by myself, and had never done this before. The second time it took four hours, which is typical for most people.
You need to keep an eye on yourself; if you get an electrolyte imbalance (See - you weren't listening to what Ian told you, were you? I said drink lots of electrolytes and eat lots of salt!), the first sign is you start to get disoriented to delusional or nauteous. This is already a very, very serious situation. Young, healthy people have promptly died after getting to this point.
Take your time, take lots of breaks, go up during the cool of the day (or go up during the night if it's the summer).
It's all do-able by even out of shape people. You'd be surprised at the overweight chain smokers who've gone down to the river and made it back. My recommendation: Do it, but go easy - get used to it and get some experience first.
at first i thought someone was organizing a trip and i would love to go to grand canyon with someone who has. i'm not big into organized, paid trip by professionals. i like the illlusion i'm ruffing it, ability to change plans, along with saving money (refer to profile - i'm in finance).
so if you are going again in february (march may be better for me), i'd consider meeting you and some other cdff freaks. :waving:
Thank you very much for all the wonderful tips regarding the Grand Canyon. I have been to the Grand Canyon a couple of times since I live in California. It is an awesome sight.
I especially enjoyed watching the sunsets with all it's vivid colors. I have not gone hiking in the Grand Canyon but I would like to someday. Thanks again for some great advice.
